Progress has been really slow over the last 2 months as I've been busy with other things, but I've managed to do little jobs here and there so I figured it's time for another update. I apologise if it's a bit long!
First things first - I owe a special thanks to Hendrik (Fasani) for sending me an original Savali badge that he found. He is a true gent! All I need to do now is have it restored. So thanks again Hendrik!
I've been looking into the problems with the clutch recently. To recap, the clutch would engage most of the time but the bite point is very low and the pedal does not return all the way. Firstly I replaced the slave cylinder as the old one looked a bit tired and the flexible seal was perished. While doing this I removed the clutch damper (the disc-shaped object) and planned to fit the pipe straight from the hard line to the slave, but this pipe had a slight split in the rubber. It wasn't leaking but I replaced this too for peace of mind. I then spent some time bleeding the clutch but the problems remain! If I bleed it the pedal becomes quite firm and the clutch feels ok, even though the pedal still sticks a little bit. At this point there are no more bubbles coming out of the slave. However if I bleed the clutch again after 5/10 minutes there are suddenly a lot of bubbles and the clutch pedal has gone soft again. It's obvious there's a leak somewhere - but I can't see any fluid? There's no sign of leaks around the slave cylinder, inside the footwell or under the car... I think I'll replace the master cylinder next as I've heard they can break internally, if that doesn't fix the problem I don't know what will!
I've also been chasing down some possible causes of the car's running problems. I got hold of some wiring diagrams and spent some time checking over the connectors and switches in the engine bay. I found that the connector for the 'idle air valve actuator' had been very poorly repaired...the plastic casing had cracked and somebody had sealed it up again with some sort of silicone sealant? Two of the pins were corroded and one was covered in sealant so I cleaned that up and it should have a proper connection again now. I also had the car running a few weeks earlier and I disconnected the air temperature sensor from the large intake hose - it made no difference to how the car was running, which I thought was a bit odd?
There's also some slightly bad news...I think the timing may have slipped a tooth or two, most likely on the rear exhaust cam After I had replaced the clutch items, cleaned up some connectors and taped up the slightly split large intake hose I started it up, expecting it to run a bit better. But the car now sounds really rough it still starts and idles ok but it doesn't sound right and there seems to be more vibration than before. The tapping sound from the rear head is also suddenly louder. Needless to say I haven't run it since and within the next week or so I'll take the cam covers off to check the timing. I ordered a new belt as a precaution and I noticed something odd - the teeth on the new belt are round, whereas the teeth on the belt that's currently fitted are more 'squared-off' but still fits the pulleys OK. The new belt looks like it will fit the pulleys better though, and the current belt is correctly tensioned so I'm wondering if indeed the belt has slipped, this could be what caused it? I ordered it from a specialist with the correct part number, so perhaps my new one just has a more updated/better design?
Hi Alfan, sorry for the late reply. I've been monitoring the 10A fuse and so far it's fine, the wires feeding into the fuse holder don't quite match the Q4 diagrams I have found so I guess something else has been patched into/onto this fuse - possibly part of the LPG system? Electronics aren't my strong point though.Alfan wrote:That is the same info, as in my manual, which is for 1994, so I believe this is correct. Why the 3A does not work in your car is a good question, but if the 10A works, I think that should be ok, but of course worth monitoring.
I don't recall if you have cats and lambda probes installed, due to the different engine. I haven't tried removing the fuse in mine to see what happens.
It looks like I have twin cats and twin lambdas, which I believe is how the car would have left the factory. I think I'll change the lambdas at some point just to eliminate any problems there. When I've got the car back on the road I'll probably look into removing the cats too, as the rules for imports of a certain age here in the UK mean I don't legally have to have them fitted.
I think that's all for now...below is a pic I took after giving it a quick polish last month. It's not the best picture, but the car cleans up quite well.
...I've also started having a go at refurbishing my Zender Milanos....I can post pictures of those too if anyone wants to see? It's taking forever though I promise I'll try to make these updates a bit shorter in future!