Alfan wrote:Does the suitcase contain the Q4 specific modules? MA10A for Motronic, MA12A for 4WD, M30A for ABS (also for 33 Q4).
No, unfortunately I'm not that lucky.
I only have the following: M8B/GB, M1C/IN, M3B/IN, M6B/GB, M7A/IN, M8A/GB, M10A/GB, M12B/GB, M14A/GB, M2A/IN, M21A/GB, M24A/GB, M19A/GB, M12A/GB, M1B/IN, M23A/GB, M25A/GB, M2B/IN, M29A/GB, M11B/GB, M28A/GB, M25B/GB, M50A/GB, M21B/GB, M33A/GB. I'll probably have some reprogrammed though, I know user alfisty here can do it, I'm just wondering if anyone has source with English language?
Alfan wrote:Any other work left on the car?
Yes, burning points are not working ABS (spare from Alfist laying in a box), serpentine belt pulley bearings, Viscomatic hydraulic pressure pipes (have a leak, will make new rubber hoses). Nice to have things on my list are removing dents after hale damage 2 years ago, refresh underbody coating, refurbish side mirrors. To do in the future will be slight (at the moment) leaks developing from the oil pan and the rear diff (only wet, no dripping), and some other minor points.
I just remembered that I've also fixed my erratic right turn signal, which was sometimes working and sometimes not. Hazards were OK at all times and left blinker too. So I figured when I hit the dash in the area under the steering wheel it would make the blinker to function briefly. I've read this is a common and known issue with our cars, and that the relay is at fault. Correct, but caution: in my car, and probably in other Q4s, separate left and right blinker relays are nowhere to be found in the area right and below of the steering wheel, where they are in other cars together with a group of other relays. Instead, there is a combined, multifunctional relay in the main fuse box area. Can't miss it, it's the tallest one in the left lower corner, has 7 or so legs. Just open it (have to leverage equally from both sides) and reflow the base soldering joints, your problem will be gone.
What tape did you use for electric harnesses? I would also like to tide it up but I don't want to use something which will "erode" glue from engine heat that it won't be possible to remove it.
And also, what paint? It seems like with texture, not completely smooth - which is interesting and I kind of like it
I'm happy you've noticed my wiring job.
I usually put some attention to details. In fact, if you look closely, you'll notice that I've replaced most of the visible bolts and fasteners with new ones (including the ones holding the false firewall). Regarding the wires, I have actually removed the old wrap, and most of the insulation of the wires was gone, meaning the copper wires of the loom were shorting between the pairs... Probably not helping with your erratic idle.
I used self welding tape from Mannol for isolation (wrapped each wire individually) and to patch up all sensitive areas, also connectors. The finishing tape is an automotive electrical tape from Tesa. At some point we are all due for wiring harness renovation (I honestly can't wait to have it redone at some point), but for now I'm happy with what I did, the quality is very good. Yes, I am very patient.
Regarding the manifold paint, it's a wrinkled finish. It's an excellent paint called VHT Wrinkle Plus, one can is enough. It has a fantastic applicator valve, not of the cheap type, so you can lay it down evenly and thick, couple of layers just so it doesn't drip. It then has to dry for 24 hours, and then you cure it with a heat gun, that's what I did. Wrinkles are always good for this extra bit of surface area to help with heat. I did it because I like the finish, kind of how Lancia did it, but also you can't keep the old aluminum in a representative shape to be honest on a normally driven car. I just cleaned and decreased the surface gently, so I can always go back to the original aluminium after bead blasting it if I wish, no wire brush or any other harm done.
Sorry for the essay.